Safed
Safed => (Hebrew: ??? Tsfat) is one of the oldest centers for Jewish learning and spirituality.
Understand
It is the birthplace of the Kabbalah, and one of the main bastions for Torah study and the like during the centuries of Ottoman rule. It is one of the four holiest cities in Judaism, along with Hebron, Tiberias, and of course Jerusalem. While there are many stories about when it was founded, and by whom, it truly grew to prominence in the late 15th century when it became a refuge for Jews fleeing the Spanish Inquisition. It is a cute, quaint city in the north of Israel, and has in recent years regained popularity, not only as a center for study, but also as an artists' colony.
See
There are a number of old, beautiful, and unique synagogues in Tsfat, some of them rather famous world-wide among the Jewish community. The "Abuhav" synagogue is probably the most unique, most beautiful, and most famous. It was built in the 1490's according to Kabbalistic architectural and spiritual beliefs. The "Caro" synagogue is another popular landmark, established in the 16th century on the site of a yeshiva run by one of the chief rabbis of Tsfat, and a compiler of the Shulchan Aruch, a book of Jewish law. Both of these synagogues follow Sephardic traditions, and both, along with all the synagogues in Tsfat, and most around the country and the world, expect all visitors to be dressed appropriately; this means one must have legs covered (no shorts or short skirts), no bare shoulders/upper arms, and all men must cover their heads.
The city also boasts a growing number of small, private art galleries, many of which have little cafes or tourist shops attached, selling postcards, t-shirts, and other basic tourist goods.
Do
After Jerusalem, Tsfat is probably one of the best places in the country to get cultural and religious items. A narrow cobblestone street is lined with open-air shops selling everything from menorahs to mezuzahs, Seder plates and Shabbat candlesticks to swords and other historical/cultural items. These shops are also known for pictures that are made up of the words of songs or Scripture. At the end of this shopping street is a shop called "Nerot Tsfat," or Safed Candles. They sell beautiful candles in every size, shape, and color, as well as displaying a number of scenes in wax, including David & Goliath, Noah's Ark, and a wedding.
Learn
In addition, there are several museums in Tsfat, honoring and sharing the town's important place in Jewish history and culture. The Israeli Bible Museum makes its home here, along with the Museum of Hungarian Jewry, and the Beit Hameiri Museum, which chronicles Tsfat's local history.
Eat
This section of the city is built in layers, or tiers. The shopping arcade and synagogues are on the middle level, and at the top is a more modern street, mostly cafes and restaurants, along with a number of other shops selling a variety of more mundane, secular, merchandise. Falafel, shawarma, pizza, and other basic foods are relatively cheap, and very good here.
Get out