Myanmar

Myanmar, also known by its old name Burma, is a country in Southeast Asia. It lies on the Bay of Bengal and Andaman Sea coast between India and Bangladesh to the east and Thailand and Laos to the west. Its northern border is with China.

Regions

States (pyi):

• Chin
• Kachin
• Kayin State (Karen State)
• Kayah (Karenni State)
• Mon
• Rakhine (Arakan State)
• Shan State

Divisions (taing-neh):

• Yangon Division (Rangoon)
• Ayeyarwady Division (Irrawaddy)
• Bago Division (Pegu)
• Magwe Division
• Mandalay Division
• Sagaing Division
• Tanintharyi Division (Tenassarim)

Cities

• Yangon (formerly Rangoon) — A bustling city of 4 million, known for its pagodas and colonial architecture
• Bago (formerly Pegu)
• Mandalay — Former capital of the Konbaung Dynasty built around the Mandalay Royal Palace
• Pyinmana — Government-designated capital in Mandalay Division

Other destinations

• Mrauk U - The former capital of the Rakhine kingdom
• Kengtung
• Kyaiktiyo - A gold-gilded rock sitting atop a cliff and a major pilgrimage site
• Bagan - An archaeological zone near the shores of the Ayeyarwady
• Mount Popa - An extinct volcano regarded as the Mount Olympus of Myanmar

Understand

Myanmar has been subject to rule by a military junta for much of the past 40 years. The country has a reputation abroad as one where political dissent is brutally crushed, as in the case of the frequent house arrests of democracy campaigner Aung San Suu Kyi.When in Myanmar,don't insult the government and abstain from political activities.

Aung San Suu Kyi celebrated her 60th birthday under house arrest on June 19, 2005 and October 2005 marked the 10th anniversary of her imprisonment. Her communication with the outside world is severely restricted. Burmese democracy groups have created a "Candles for Burma" campaign via which supporters worldwide can upload digital birthday greetings to the imprisoned leader here => .

Aung San Suu Kyi has also expressed a desire for people not to visit Burma, because of the harsh military government's investment in tourism, and the profit they make from it. As some of the tourist infrastructure in Burma was allegedly built on the back of forced and child labour, there may be ethical considerations involved in travelling to Burma at the moment. On the other hand, Pro-Democracy advocates such as Ma Thanegi encourage tourism as a way of getting funds into local hands, despie the fact that some hard currency is obtained by the government in exchange for visas. It is likely that the governments prime hard currency revenue comes from trade with China, as well as the heroin and gem trades, so it is unlikely that a completely effective tourist boycott would likely effect the regime's durability. In addition, some Burmese feel that the presence of foreign tourists deters the Burmese government from the worst of its excesses. So its a mixed bag.

As a result of the political situation, Myanmar is subject to trade sanctions from much of the western world, and this will cause problems for the unwary traveller. Some reports indicate that travel to certain regions is officially off-limits. However very often permits can be arranged by a guesthouse for approx. 10 USD/day. Sometimes you will be required to take an interpreter with you when traveling to an area that requires a permit, which will cost you approx. another 10 USD/day. Whether these interpreters accompany you to look after you or to keep you from going to places the government doesn't want you to see is a matter of intense debate among travellers in Myanmar - and even those who have never been there.

Myanmar also produces nearly 50% of the world's supply of heroin, second after Afghanistan. Many current and suspected drug lords have ties to the existing government and have major investments in the country, including hotels and other businesses. As a result, travelling to Myanmar may be funding and supporting the drug trade in Myanmar.

Get in

Visa-free entry is possible at some border crossings - however you must then exit Myanmar via the same border crossing, usually (but not always) on the same day that you enter, and fees apply (typically USD5-USD10, depending on the crossing) - see the 'Overland' section below for more details.

Otherwise, visas must be obtained in advance by all visitors except ASEAN, People's Republic of China and Russian nationals.

An eVisa service was introduced in 2004, but the website has been unavailable since early 2005.

By plane

Myanmar Airways International (MAI) links Yangon with Bangkok, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. They operate an all-Boeing fleet. Indian Airlines links Yangon with Calcutta, while Mandarin Airlines links Yangon with Taipei.

The most popular place to get a flight to Myanmar is Thailand. Air Mandalay connects Chiang Mai with Mandalay and Yangon. Phuket Airlines connects Bangkok and Yangon. Biman Bangladesh links Bangkok with Mandalay. Thai Airways International also have a Bangkok - Yangon and a Chiang Mai - Yangon flight. These flights start at 3500 baht one-way and are best bought from a travel agency in Bangkok.

By land

It is not currently feasible to independently enter or leave Myanmar across the borders with Bangladesh, India or Laos.

Foreigners can cross from China to Myanmar via Ruili, although a permit (as well as a visa) and a guide are needed. Crossing in the opposite direction is more difficult to arrange and details are uncertain.

The situation with the border crossings with Thailand is as follows:

• Mae Sai - Tachileik: Foreigners can access this crossing from either side, and enter and/or exit either country here; no onward travel restrictions (other than those that apply to everyone, no matter how you enter); to get to Tachileik or Kengtung from the rest of Myanmar, a domestic flight must be taken (eg from Heho).

• Mae Sot - Myawadi: Foreigners can only access this crossing from the Thai side; neither onward travel into Myanmar (ie beyond the border town) nor overnight stays are possible. No visa needed; instead there's an entry stamp fee - USD10 if paid with USD notes, more (500 baht) if paid with Thai currency.

• Three Pagodas Pass: Foreigners can only access this crossing from the Thai side; onward travel into Myanmar (ie beyond the border town) is not possible; entry/exit stamps are NOT issued here, and your passport is held at the Myanmar checkpoint.

• Ranong - Kawthaung: Foreigners can access this crossing from either side, and enter and/or exit either country here; no onward travel restrictions (other than those that apply to everyone, no matter how you enter); access to/from Kawthaung is by sea (Myeik/Dawei & Yangon) and air (Myeik & Yangon). If entering without a visa, maximum stay is 3 days / 2 nights, travel beyond Kawthoung is not permitted, and there's an entry stamp fee - USD5 if paid with USD notes, more (300 baht) if paid with Thai currency.

Get around

By air

Myanma Airways (UB) - not to be confused with Myanmar Airways International (8M) "MIA" - is known for its poor safety record.

By rail

Myanmar has an extensive rail network. However, the rail system is notoriously slow- running four to five hours behind schedule on the Yangon-Mandalay run for an express train is pretty standard. Sleepers are available on many express trains, although they must be reserved well in advance as they are typically taken up by tour groups. Food service is available on the express up and the express down between Yangon and Mandalay.

By boat

There is also a large river ferry network. Both are to a large extent run by the government, although there are now some private ferry services. The trip from Mandalay to Bagan takes the better part of a day, from Bagan to Yangon is several days.

By road

You can also use buses to places you are allowed to visit, and pick-up trucks for shorter distances. Both are mostly payable in Kyat and expect to pay some extra for being a tourist. Remember, travel in Myanmar is slow. Expect to pay toll fees, which often add up.

Talk

The official language of Myanmar is Burmese (known by the government as Myanmar), closely related to Tibetan and Chinese. Myanmar is a former British colony, and as a result - and because English is still being taught in primary schools - many Burmese understand at least some rudimentary English.

Burmese use the Burmese script, based on the ancient Pali script. Bilingual signs (English and Burmese) are available in most tourist spots.

Buy

Myanmar's currency is the kyat (abbreviated K). Pya are coins, and are rarely seen. Technically only kyat and FECs are legal tender, but US dollars (USD) and euros very widely accepted and often preferred, but in many cases, payments can only be made in USD notes. It is more sensible to use the black market to exchange USD to kyat.

Kyat cannot be exchanged abroad. Bring USD cash, and dispose of remaining kyat before leaving.

Exchange rate

The official rate "floats" around a farcical 6 (yes, six) kyat to the US dollar =>. In reality, the true (so-called "black market") exchange rate => fluctuates considerably around both sides of the 1000 kyat to the USD mark. Learn the daily exchange rate from reliable persons.

Foreign Exchange Certificates (FECs)

Visitors to Myanmar were previously required to change $200 into FECs upon arrival, but this was abolished in August 2003. FECs are still valid tender, but should be avoided at all costs as they are no longer worth their face value (although a one FEC note has good souvenir potential - the resemblance to Monopoly money => is uncanny).

Credit cards

Due to EU and US sanctions, credit cards are not accepted anywhere in Myanmar. Because of a widespread banking scandal in the 2000s, many private banking companies were shut down. However, there are places where you can cash your credit card for a cut of around 7%. Large hotels such as Sedona, and the shops in Scott Market can help you.

Myanmar does have a small number of ATMs; however these do not accept foreign issued cards.

Travellers cheques

Travellers cheques are not accepted in Myanmar. The only exception might be some especially shady money changer - but be prepared to pay an astronomical commission (30% is not uncommon).

Foreign currencies

Visitors must plan carefully and bring enough cash with them to cover their entire visit, as there's no easy way to get more without leaving the country.

Never exchange money in a bank or at the airport as the rates are excrutiatingly uncompetitive.

Western currencies are best exchanged in Yangon, however rates for everything other than USD (and to a lesser extent euros) are poor, hence it's best to convert to USD before entering Myanmar. Both USD and euros can easily be exchanged in most cities; sterling can be exchanged in Yangon and Mandalay, possibly in Bagan.

Foreign currency (including USD) must be in good condition. Torn bills are virtually impossible to change, and the same sometimes applies to notes which have been written on, otherwise marked, or even repeatedly folded. When getting currency from a bank to take to Myanmar, request new notes. Some $100 bills with certain serial number prefixes (especially "CB") are sometimes regarded as suspect, so it may be better to take $50 or smaller denominations.

Costs

It's quite possible to be comfortable on less than $20/day. Foreigners will likely be charged fees, including video camera, digital camera, entrance, parking, and zone fees.

What to buy

A popular purchase in Myanmar is lacquerware, which is made into bowls, cups, vases and various items. Beware of fraudulent lacquerware, though, which is poorly made, but looks authentic. Buy from reputable dealers. There is also a wide variety of beautiful silverware and jewellery as well as textiles, including gorgeous silks and handcrafts such as wooden carvings, silk paintings and stonework.

Avoid giving money to beggars in Yangon and Mandalay (as painful as it might be to refuse them) but do buy handcrafts from street vendors and be generous at temples and monasteries. Definitely bargain! It's expected virtually everywhere, even in some of the nicest hotels.

Some items may need customs permits, but hiding them well in luggage will help avoid problems.

Eat

Burmese food is a blend of Chinese, Indian and Mon influences. Rice is at the core of most Burmese food, and good vegetarian food is widely available. Burmese food is often extremely pungent. Food is inexepensive at most restaurants (ranging from K500 - K1500), but those looking for five-star cuisine should eat at hotel restaurants.

Dishes

Because the Burmese cuisine is a medley of many regional influences, it has many characteristics. Seafood is more common along the coastline, while preserved meats are more common in inland areas. Many Indian, Chinese, and Shan dishes are served throughout the country. Some dishes to try are:

• Mohinga (pronounced mo-HIN-ga) is a dish of thin noodles in a curried soup (orange in colour). Its taste can range from sweet to spicy, and is usually eaten during breakfast.
• Onnokauswe (pronounced oun-NO-kao-sui) is a dish of thicker noodles in a thick soup of coconut milk. Often added is chicken, and it has a strong taste and odour.
• Laphet thote (pronounced la-peh THOU) is a salad of fermented tea leaves and a variety of nuts. It is commonly mixed with sliced lettuce, and is eaten with rice. The dish originally comes from Shan State.
• Mee swan (pronounced mee-SUAN) is a Chinese dish of noodles in a broth, served with herbs and little meat.
• Palata (prounced pa-la-ta) is an Indian bread (prata), which is fried and served with sugar for breakfast, or with curried meats for lunch and dinner.

Where to eat

• Biryani restaurants (pronounced dan-PAO-sain) are available throughout Yangon (especially the cantonment). The three main competing restaurant chains are Yuzana, KSS (Kyet Shar Soon), and Nilar. All are halal.
• Oriental House is known for its Guangdong-style dim sum and Cantonese cuisine. It has franchises in Yangon and Mandalay, and is also available at the Yangon International Airport.
• Golden Duck (pronounced shui-BE) specialises in Chinese cuisine, and has franchises in Mandalay and Yangon.
• Shwe Pa Zun (pronounced shui-ba-ZUN; No.246/248, Corner of 9th and Anawrahta Street, Lanmadaw Township) is a well-established bakery/restaurant chain, with two expansive stores in Yangon. Its bakery sells excellent paluda (Indian faluta), ice cream and milk with an assortment of gelatin.

Drink

Tap water in Myanmar is not safe to drink. In addition, ice may be contaminated. Bottled water is readily available in the majority of touristed sites. However, do not to drink water served at restaurants, unless the bottled water is given.

Alcohol

Although frowned upon by conservative Buddhists, Hindus, and Muslims, alcohol is consumed mostly among men. Myanmar Beer (lager) is most popular in the country. Other variants, including Mandalay Beer exist. However, many of such companies are government-owned and/or have links to the drug trade. Toddy juice (ta-YEI) is popular in central Myanmar, and is made from fermented palm sugar. An alcoholic drink popular in the Shan State is Shwe le maw, and is reportedly very strong.

Sleep

Accommodation is readily available in many tourist locales throughout Myanmar. Hostels and cheap hotels are available throughout the country. World-class hotels are available in Yangon, Bagan, and Mandalay. World-class resorts are available in many resort cities along the coastline and in Inlay Lake.

Internet access is available in many of Yangon's hotels, but are more expensive and heavily censored. Hotels often provide complimentary breakfast.

Learn

Myanmar offers few educational opportunities for foreigners. Among those are:

• Buddhist studies
• Burmese language
• Meditation

Work

Work in Myanmar for foreigners is hard to come by. NGOS and other aid groups do work in the remote areas of Myanmar, but because of the unstable political situation and the government's edicts, it is difficult to carry out tasks. In addition, several organisations have pulled out of Myanmar, after complaints of the government's continual probes. Foreign companies, mainly based in Singapore, Thailand, and China do operate, but on a small scale. Teaching English is feasible in the city's private schools, but is off-limits in the public education system.

Stay safe

Crime

Myanmar has a dangerous reputation, but it is generally quite safe for the visitor. You are likely to have your passport checked often, but that should be the extent of your hassles with the government. In the areas of the country you are permitted to go to, the chance of you being a victim of crime is remote.

Since 2005, there has been an increase in street violence (particularly robberies), in major cities such as Yangon and Mandalay.

However, the area of concern has been in the increase in the number of bombings throughout the country. On 7 May 2005, there was a series of bombings that took place in Yangon, in which many were killed. On 26 April 2005, Zegyo Market in Mandalay was the site of a bomb explosion. On 21 October 2005, a similar explosion occurred in front of Traders Hotel in Yangon. On 5 December 2005, a bomb exploded inside a building in Yangon. On 2 January 2006 (Independence Day), two simultaneous explosions occurred near a school in Bago. The government has put blame on several insurgent organisations, including overseas pro-democracy organisations. However, there is speculation as to whether government-affiliated organisations have been the source of these bombings.

Always be alert and cautious. Yangon's security has been heightened, and in many hotels and office buildings, you may be searched.

Corruption

Myanmar is one of the world's most corrupt countries. Officials and other government servants may discreetly ask you for a bribe, or make it more difficult. Giving some money, or merely asking to speak to a superior will ward off such attempts. In addition, those of Caucasian descent are less likely to experience trouble. However, those of Asian descent (including South Asians and East Asians) may be mistaken for expatriates, and may be forced to give bribes.

On the road

Road travel to tourist destinations is safe, although some roads may be rough. Highways are often 2-lane, and cars often pass one another. Accidents and fatalities are common. Night-time road travel is not recommended, and medical facilities are limited in rural areas. At government hospitals, bribes may be required for expedient services.

In Yangon, riding motorcycles and bicycles is illegal. Cars and pedestrians do not follow the established rules, and crossing the road is difficult. It is also considered illegal to cross an ember light without stopping. Despite having crossed 3/4 of the way, you will be required to stop in the middle of the road, as you make your way back in reverse. It is best to follow the locals when crossing the road. Mandalay's streets are occupied with mainly motorcycles and bicycles.

Civil conflict

Various insurgent groups continue to operate in the Shan, Mon and Karen States of Myanmar, along the Thai and Chinese borders. Travel to these regions is generally not permitted by the Myanmar government without a permit. In addition, travel to Kayah State and Rakhine State is restricted heavily, due to human rights issues and ongoing conflicts with rebel groups. As a general rule, divisions (Yangon, Bago, Ayeyarwady, Sagaing, Taninthayi, Mandalay, Magwe) are permitted tourist areas.

Stay healthy

Tap water is not safe in Myanmar, nor is ice. Always buy bottled water. Tropical diseases such as dengue fever, Japanese encephalitis and malaria are endemic. Drug-resistant strains of malaria and tuberculosis are common in many areas. Hepatitis vaccinations are highly recommended. At restaurants, always use a new pair of chopsticks. If chopsticks are not available, ask the server to boil the utensils in water.

Follow the old rule "If you can't fry it, stir it, peel it or boil it - then forget about it"

Respect

The people of Myanmar are very conservative in their dress and behaviour and you should pay special attention to respecting their Buddhist traditions wherever you go, but particularly in temples and monasteries (of which there are thousands). Shorts and sleeveless shirts are frowned upon and in fact, are not allowed in shrines, temples and monasteries. Short skirts are also not recommended. You must also remove your shoes in these locations, so the easiest thing for a tourist is to dress like the locals!

For both men and women, this means a longyi, or wrap skirt similar to a sarong that you can purchase everywhere. They are wrapped in different ways for men and women, so find a local who can show you how to tie them. Also recommended are flipflops (called slippers by the locals) that can be easily slipped off and left at the temple entrance.

Also avoid t-shirts with images of Buddhas or Buddhist imagery, which is considered highly disrespectful.

Give generously at temples and monasteries but be aware that most will not allow women to enter some of the more sacred areas. You can purchase gold leaf that is applied to Buddha statues, but again, women are generally not allowed, so don't make a fuss and respect this tradition!

When praying or paying respects, it is important to ensure that your feet do not point towards the Buddha or towards people. Do not point to images of Buddha. Tuck your feet underneath you when kneeling at shrines and temples.

The Burmese commonly refer to tourists of Caucasian descent as bo, which translates "leader", as a sign of respect. Address elders with U (pronounced "oo", as in soon) or "Uncle" for men, and Daw or "Auntie" for women.

Contact

International mail out of Myanmar is reportedly quite efficient. International phone calls can be arranged at the Central Telephone & Telegraph Office at the corner of Ponsodan and Mahabandoola Streets in Yangon.

Access to the Internet is very limited. Internet cafes exist in Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan and many other places that are frequented by tourists, but access is extremely slow and many sites are inaccessible. All common webmail providers are blocked. Many internet cafes have found ways to circumvent this though so you shouldn't have a problem acessing your webmail if you really need to, provided of course that an internet cafe (or electricity for that matter) exists where you are.

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