Asuncion

Asuncion is the capital of Paraguay.

Understand

Asuncion is a large city situated at the confluence of the Parana and Paraguay rivers, however the rivers play a very small part in daily activity. The city is fairly clean for a third world country. The main streets are paved but only one or two blocks off the main arteries the streets are dirt or "cobble stones." Downtown has many tall and modern buildings, but some date to the 1800s.

Paraguay has long been plagued by dicatatorships, the last one was Stroessner who died in 1989. Since then a succession of presidents and a semblence of democracy have prevailed so that the government is fairly stable even though shockingly corrupt. Stroessner was proud that smuggling was Paraguay's main industry and encouraged it by declaring "smuggling brought peace." Because of this form of government Paraguay has remained isolated and insular. The population is undereducated. Reading a book is almost unheard of. There was a war with Boliva in 1930-32 in an area called the "Chaco," a desolate uninhabited wasteland. So many of Paraguay's male population were killed that there are hardly any elderly residents over the age of 50. It took the decades of the 30s, 40s and 50s before the male population reached 50-50 with the female population, so not many children were born then.

Get in

By plane

From the US: American Airlines out of Miami,FL flies to Sao Paulo, Brazil. From there only one American flight goes into Asuncion per day. Other airlines are TAM and Varig from Brazil. Highly recommend getting a porter at Asuncion Airport to whisk you through customs. A visa is required to visit Paraguay which must be secured in advance in the US and is only valid for 90 days.

By train

By car

If you rent a car it must be a heavy duty SUV. The streets are in horrible disrepair and travel by car is an unforgettable experience of bumps and potholes. A majority of streets are not paved at all. The Paraguayan drivers are unbelievable! No one stops for stop signs or red lights. To do so would be unmanly. If one car gets into the left turn lane another might join the first and even a third all jostling to be first making the turn when the traffic is clear. Pedestrians do not have the right of way and must yield to autos. There is a huge number of motorbikes, called "motos," weaving in and out of traffic. Right of way is determined by size. Buses and large trucks make room for no one. A large SUV can trump a family-sized auto any day. And autos try to crowd out motos. Motos of course try to run over pedestrians or bicyclists!

By bus

Buses are ubiquitous and cheap. They go everywhere in the city provided a knowledge of Spanish is asumed. Taxis are also everywhere available and inexpensive, again better speak Spanish as English as a second language is almost unkown.

By boat

Impossible.

See

There is not much to see in Asuncion. Government buildings downtown are not open to anyone. There is a pathetic museum in one of these that allows visitors but only consists of two rooms. Across the broad and picturesque plaza with fountains is the National Cathedral, but it is frequently closed, especially at midday siesta. Downtown is on a bluff above the river but the river is not attractive being populated by the poorer slums along its banks. Backyard birds in the city are interesting. There is the Great Kiskadee, Saffron Finch and Hornero. Kiskadee is like a yellow blue jay-- aggressive and large. Saffron finch is similar to a yellow house finch, Hornero is much like American Robin without the red breast. It builds a unique nest about the size and shape of a football completely out of mud and resembles a Paraguayan oven or "horno." Thus the name: "baker."

Buy

The exchange rate in 2006 was 6,000 guarani for every dollar, so your dollar goes far. But be aware the goods may be cheaply made too. Indigenous crafts are available such as tooled leather, carved wood, pottery and a particularly Paraguayan lace based on a spider's web called "Nanduti." Shopping malls exist but the stores themselves are tiny. There are no department stores, everything is bought from a specialty shop. As there is no elderly population most shops are geared toward the younger generations.

Eat

Everyone eats beef! Cattle are raised throughout Paraguay and beef is cheap and readily available. Every house has a built-in barbecue grill! The meat is not quick grilled but slow roasted and called "carne asado." Chicken is expensive but readily available. Fish is limited to the catches made in the nearby river and not seafood. It is not readily available. Potatoes can be had but not usually at every meal. Instead starches are consumed as manioc root or corn bread called "sopa paraguayo"(not soup.)There is also an anise flavored bread made from manioc flour and available on every street corner by vendors with baskets on their head called "chipa." Cooked vegetables are not common, salads are not frequent and should not be consumed raw as they may be contaminated with impure water.

Budget

American fast food consists of Burger King, McDonald's and Pizza Hut only.

Mid-range

Most shopping malls(called "shopping") have nice restaurants. Italian style cuisine predominates.

Splurge

Don't miss a Brazillian steak house called a "churrorosco," on Ave. Mariscal Lopez there is one called "Acurella.".

Drink

The national drink, which is found everywhere, is "terere,"(pronounced "tay-day-day.") It is a mixture of "yerba mate"("mah-tay") and COLD water, drunk from a special cup fashioned from a cow horn. If offered a drink (from the communal straw) DO NOT say "gracias" (thank you) as this means you do not wish any more after this one sip. Terere does not have much taste as the maker does not allow it to steep very long amongst the yerba mate leaves and because it is cold. The water used to brew may be contaminated, however.

Bottled water is available in "gasified," i.e,. carbonated mineral water and "sin gas," not carbonated.

Bottled soda is also available. Coca Cola is called simply "coca." This is not to be confused with coca leaves! But there is also a local flavor called "guarana," which is refreshing. Hot tea, iced tea or hot coffee is NOT readily available.

Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

Stay safe

Federal police have a highly visible presence. Some already decked out in riot gear as if an uprising where forthcoming at any moment. Because the dicatator did not tolerate crime in any form-- a violator simply disappeared, possibly in the river-- crime is not prevalent. Although the perception of crime now that the dictator is no longer in power runs high. Houses are protected by twenty foot high walls topped by barbed wire and electric fence or razor wire. Many, who can afford it, have a full time 24 hour guard on their grounds. Prostitution is rampant and obvious after dark on the main avenues. Liquor is easily available but not abused-- everyone drinks terere instead. There are casinos for gambling but only with electronic machines so again not abused. Pickpocketing is said to be prevalent in crowded downtown streets near expensive hotels.

Cope

Asuncion is just south of the Tropic of Capricorn so the weather is tropical. That is, mostly hot, especially in South American summer (winter in the northern hemisphere). Temperatures in December through March can consistently climb over 100 F. Humidity can be high and uncomfortable. However the weather is highly variable! When the sun shines you bake. When the rains come they come in buckets and the temperature drops precipitously.It can be very dry when the rains hold off for just a few days. Then the clouds build and it becomes cold.

Flies, ants and especially mosquitoes (but no large, creepy bugs) are everywhere. There are no screens, windows and doors are simply flung open for ventilation. Air conditioners do exist but most people depend on less expensive fans. Heaters do not exist, though on the chilliest days they would be welcomed. The soil is bright red and as many streets are unpaved dust becomes a problem. There are trees (some in the middle of roads!) for shade, but palm trees are planted everywhere. Dogs and farm animals of every description are all over the roads. There is no humane society to care for wild dogs and some are pitifully mangy. It is not uncommon to see pigs wallowing in a mud puddle in the middle of a road, chickens are everywhere, horses, donkeys and cows run loose and can be found in anyone's property.

Get out

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